AINU GLOBAL
Cuisine
Ainu cuisine, rooted in the traditions of the ethnic Ainu in Japan and Russia, stands distinct from the typical culinary practices of the Yamato majority in Japan. Unlike the prevalent use of raw preparations like sashimi in Japanese cuisine, the Ainu favor boiling, roasting, and curing meat. While traditional Ainu dishes didn't incorporate elements such as miso, soy sauce, or sugar, these ingredients have found a place in contemporary Ainu cuisine. Presently, most Ainu reside on the island of Hokkaidō in northern Japan, but historically, they were spread across the Kuril islands, the southern half of Sakhalin island, and parts of northern Honshū Island. Ainu restaurants are a rarity globally, but a few notable ones include Haru Koro (Harukor) in Shinjuku, Tokyo; Ashiri Kotan Nakanoshima in Sapporo; and both Poron'no and Marukibune in Akan, Hokkaidō.
The sika deer was the primary game animal for the Ainu. They employed various hunting methods, including the use of poisoned arrows and driving deer off cliffs, collecting them afterward. In earlier times, deer in Hokkaidō were so abundant and easy to hunt that it was often remarked, "one could start the pot boiling and then go hunting." The Ainu were adept seafarers, using dugout canoes and harpoons to target a diverse range of large marine animals, while employing nets and fishing rods for smaller ones. Although beached whales were highly valued, as hunting them directly was typically too challenging with canoes and harpoons, there were instances in Funka Bay where whales were hunted using harpoons tipped with wolfsbane poison, facilitated by the mild tides. For freshwater fishing, the Ainu utilized tools like fishing rods, nets, traps (uray), and fishing baskets (raomap). Men took on the roles of hunting and fishing, while women were tasked with collecting edible plants, a venture that began in early spring. On these gathering excursions in the mountains, women used a variety of tools such as the saranip (a bag crafted from Japanese lime tree fibers), the menoko makiri (a specialized women's knife), itani (a digging stick), and the shitap (a pick fashioned from deer horn). The Siberian onion (pukusa) was a key mountain plant harvested in spring; its taste, texture, and appearance are akin to the wild leeks found in Canada and the U.S. Additionally, during the summer, they collected significant amounts of Cardiocrinum cordatum bulbs (turep), which were essential as a preserved food item.
Some Ainu dishes include pounded meat and fish called Citatap, soup with meat, fish, and vegetables called Ohaw, stewed and mashed vegetables and beans called Rataskep, porridge made from boiling millet or rice called Sayo, and dumplings made of proso millet, foxtail millet, rice, pumpkin, and potato called Sito. Historically, the Ainu consumed two primary meals daily: breakfast (kunneywa ipe) and dinner (onuman ipe). A third meal, lunch (tokes ipe), was introduced during the Taisho period. On occasions of night fishing or other nocturnal activities, a supplementary meal, termed night meal (kunne ipe), was consumed.
When hosting guests, the lead woman in the household would serve the food, inviting them with the word “ipeyan” (please eat). Guests would acknowledge with gratitude, and if served a prized dish like bear meat, they'd gesture their appreciation by raising the food to their forehead before starting. In contrast, in the absence of guests, the family would eat without any ceremonial remarks. After finishing their meals, expressing gratitude with the word “hunna” was customary. Echoing Japanese etiquette, the Ainu deemed it courteous to finish every bit of food served. As a mark of this, it became polite for individuals to swipe any lingering sauce from their bowls with their pointer finger, and then to lick it clean. This practice inspired the Ainu name for the pointer finger, “itanki kem atsukep”, which translates to “bowl-licking finger”.